Esam 6900 Steam stopped working

    Well i didn't check your messages before trying. I replaced the thermo fuse and then ran the test mode.

    With the new thermo fuse in the machine I tested the different functions and the solenoid EV3 works.

    I tried the steam function with the spout and the steam function worked. I was very happy as I thought i fixed the issue.

    I tried the milk carafe for a latte and it started making the drink. The milk delivery stopped halfway. The coffee shot was done and It didn't give any foam.

    I unplugged the machine tested the fuse and the new 318c fuse is now blown.

    Any ideas? I bought 2 fuses but my guess is if i just replace the fuse it will blow again.

    Thanks

    That is not the end of the machine it is just a challenge.

    1. Step make the measurements I descript in the last post!

    2. Step measure the resistance of the temperature sensor of the steam generator unplugged from the power board. At 20°C you should measure a resistance of about 125 kOhms. Compare ist with the resistance of the coffee boiler. It should be the same value!

    3. Can you solder electronics? If not, perhaps you have a friend who can.

    Her you find the schematic of the machine:

    Schaltungsunterlagen DeLonghi ECAM 26.455 - Elektronik
    Hallo, zusammen Wieder konnte ich Unterlagen, dieses mal für die Leistungsplatine einer ECAM 26.455, erstellen. Die Unterlagen sind nach meinen Erkenntnissen…
    saeco-support-forum.de

    And yes it is a different typ of machine, but the electronic board is the same, with a additional small board for the EV3. It is just programmed with a different software. DeLonghi often use the same board!

    Triac TY6 is the broken Triac, it is a BTB16-700BW. I have already replaced it with a BTB16-800BW - this one has just a higher nomial Voltage what is better. Her you can find a description how to replace the triac on a slightly different board, but the parts are the same:

    file:///C:/Users/du/Downloads/Wechseln%20der%20Triacs%20TY1%20und%20TY2-2.pdf

    The triac cost less than 1 EUR in Germany:

    STMICROELECTRONICS TRIAC, 800 V, 16 A, 50 mA Snubberless, TO-220 | TRIACs günstig kaufen | reichelt elektronik
    TRIAC, 800 V, 16 A, 50 mA Snubberless, TO-220 TRIACs von STMICROELECTRONICS - Schnelle Lieferung ✓ günstige Preise ✓ Für Gewerbe und Privat ✓ Jetzt online bei…
    www.reichelt.de

    Don't forget to mount the triac with thermal conductiv heatsink paste and holding braket for good cooling!

    You will fix it!

    Thanks a lot for your help.

    1. Step make the measurements I descript in the last post!

    I'm not sure how to proceed. I know how to use the multimeter but i'm not sure where I need to measure. If I was to send you photos of the inside of the machine. Could you tell me where to take the measurements?

    2. Step measure the resistance of the temperature sensor of the steam generator unplugged from the power board. At 20°C you should measure a resistance of about 125 kOhms. Compare ist with the resistance of the coffee boiler. It should be the same value!

    Is that the fuse I just changed and blown again?

    3. Can you solder electronics? If not, perhaps you have a friend who can.

    Yes I can solder simple things. I have a solder iron but not a precision one. I'm not sure If I'll be able to do that

    4. BTB16-800BW

    I can find BTB16-800BWRG and BTB16-800BW3G locally. I'm not sure which one is the right one.

    5. Thermal paste would any paste do or do i need a specific one? like would 1G be enough or do I need more?

    6. Wouldn't it be easier to change the board, maybe not cheaper but easier. Is there a part number for the whole board?

    I found this one 5213215571 but again not sure if that's the right thing to change. I do realise its mad to spend 68euro instead of replacing a 1euro component but i wouldn't have to solder.

    Thanks again,

    Lionel

    I really want to fix it now. the espresso part of the machine works really well and I finally found the right coffee bean for me so i'm motivated to get the steam issue fixed.

    Edited once, last by lionelpoirier64: thermal paste question update (May 2, 2026 at 10:24 PM).

    Sorry, I forgot you are not an electrician:)

    Step 1 was just for making sure that the triac is faulty. It is not really necessary.

    Step 2 ist important! This are not the thermo fuses. At the moment I not possible for me to make photos of a machine. But you can find here a description how to make the measurement on the NTC-Temperature sensor - see page 4:

    Sensor NTC Temperaturfühler DeLonghi Kaffeevollautomat
    Der Sensor NTC Temperaturfühler sitzt bei DeLonghi ESAM und ETAM Kaffeevollautomaten direkt am Erhitzer ✔ Schneller & zuverlässiger Versand
    www.juraprofi.de

    Filebase-Entry
    Verschiedene Widerstandsmessungen an einer ESAM. Ergänzung Thermosensor 10/12. Ergänzung Solenoidventil 08/13. Ergänzung Antriebs- und Mahlwerksmotor 10/13
    Der Automat heizt nicht mehr richtig auf? Die Tassenabstellfläche wird zu heiss? Ihr wollt wissen welches Bauteil defekt ist? Ihr seid im Besitz eines Multimeters und kennt Euch damit aus? Dann seid Ihr hier richtig. Hier werden Euch die Bauteile mit…
    michael2
    April 11, 2026 at 8:53 PM

    Step 3 If you have vacuum desoldering pumpe it should be not a problem.

    Step 4 BTB 16-800BWRG is the correct typ.

    https://ie.farnell.com/stmicroelectronics/btb16-800bwrg/triac-800v-16a-to-220ab/dp/2629728

    Step 5 Any cheap thermal paste / grease will work e.g.

    https://ie.farnell.com/gc-electronics/10-8108/thermal-grease-white-tube-6-5g/dp/1828602

    Step 6 Yes, of course it would be easier;)

    So let say i decide to go to step 6 directly and get a new board. Should I still check step 2?

    If the temperature sensor is dead and i replace the board. Will the triac on the board fail? I'm going to check the sensor and I'll order a new one if necessary.

    I don't think i'll be able to desolder and resolder the triac. I changing the sensor and the board solves the issue and I can get another 10 years of use on my machine I'll be happy. I can't spend €20 euro and not be sure my soldering will work when I can get a new card for €68.

    Is it the right board? the right part number?

    Also if I get a new board, I'll get spare parts of the old board in case it fails again.

    I just want to make sure I check everything that I can before spending more money. It doesn't matter if it's for the components alone or the whole board. But I want to make sure the solution I choose will guarantee I will fix the machine for good.

    On the other hand I don't want to get a new board replace it and blow the triac on it or something else. If you know what I mean.

    As always, thanks a mil for your help. I'll keep you posted.

    Lionel

    So after further investigation.

    I opened the machine. Checked the NTC temperature sensor. I tested both the one from the heat block and the steam block

    The heat block NTC sensor reads 111.3

    The Steam block NTC sensor reads 107.5

    i did not take them of the machine the sensor pads were still attached to the heaters. I only disconnected them from the board. The machine switch is on I. I'm well off the measurement of the document page 4 you shared with me. So i'm getting a new sensor.

    Question. My NTC sensor cable is blue. The one you gave me the link for is white. Does it matter?

    I also measured the triac on TY6 by using the multimeter on the diode symbol. I believe I should get 070 between A1 and Gate. I get 064. i get nothing between A2 and gate. The multimetre stays on 1. So I think the triac is good. Same on the other Triac.

    I also did the measurement of page 2. For the Dampfheizung I get 51 Ohm so i think the steam thermoblock is fine.

    What do you think?

    Also, I was reading some of your comments to help another user of the forum on steam issue. You said to him to replace both thermo fuse at the back of the steam heating element. That they can conduct electricity and continuity might be ok but interrupt the circuit at low temperatures of less than 145 °C. should I change both? Are they both 318C ? I thought the vertical one was 170C and the horizontal one was 318C.

    Thanks, Lionel

    Your NTC-temperatur sensors are both OK, when the tempertature of the boilers where at about 23 °C. It is no Problem when the color of the sensors vary - white and blue is original.

    Please measure the resistance between A1 and A2 on the triacs. This is the power "switch" pass, here the triac may get steadily contuctive. But some there is no steady contuctivity but the triac switches only ones on and no more of until the powerswitch of the machine is switched of.

    Steam thermoblock is OK.

    There are two identical thermo fuses on the steam thermoblock. Over many years of use these thermo fuses are aging an may open circuit under 145 °C. This leads to a faulty or bad milkfoam production.

    Can i ask you how do i need to set up the multimeter when measuring between A1 and A2 on Triac TY6. Can I also ask you what should I get as a measurement?

    Also i'll unplug the machine but should it be on I or O?

    If the Triac TY6 is indeed faulty. I hope it is at that stage, I don't really want to replace it again. What could have caused the triac to fail?

    Thanks, Lionel

    I don't know what multimeter you have - foto?

    If your multimeter has a Diode-test function, than this setting/range is the right one.

    If your multimeter has only the resistance function, than the smallest measurement range is the right one.

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